I think I should rename this blog "The Easily Impressed American." I just spent 6 days in Istanbul, Turkey. It was really cool -- like no place I've ever been. (Pictures are on the way...camera battery is charging...)You might say, "Give me a break! Is everywhere she goes the most awesome place on earth?!" Well, the answer might simply be yes. There are so many cool places and things to see in the world, it blows my little small-town mind. Again and again and again. Sure, some things are better than others, but I can honestly say I haven't gone anywhere yet since being over here that hasn't done something for me. But then again, maybe I'm just easy to please.
The thing about Istanbul is I can't figure the place out. Turkey covers both the Europe and Asian continents (the Bosphorus seperates the two, you can drive a bridge over). It is becoming more and more western (their EU application is in!), but it is 99% Muslim. It was once an outpost and then capital of the Roman Empire, an early seat of Christianity, and later became Muslim. That's a REALLY condensed history that does not do anything justice, but seriously, it has a fascinating backstory -- check it out for yourself. Here's a good link to a brief history if you're interested: www.allaboutturkey.com/istanbul.htm
I was there for work over 6 days and had the opportunity to meet lots of great people in our affiliate office who were all very kind and gracious to me. They also took it upon themselves to show me around the city and host some great evenings out.
I arrived on Wednesday evening and met two of my clients for dinner at the hotel restaraunt (I was staying at the Hyatt Regency in the city center). The highlight was when a woman walked in (with a bit of an entourage) and everyone stopped to take notice. The client told me she is "the Madonna of Turkey" -- an actress, singer, TV host, etc. Her name is Hulya Avsar. So there -- my first Turkish celebrity sighting, and it was a good one! They tell me she is in the papers every day for something.
Thursday for lunch, Gonca (pronounced Gonja), the head of the Istanbul office, took me to lunch at a traditional Turkish restaraunt called Kanaat Lokantasi in the neighbourhood of Uskudar (on the Anatolian/Asian side of Istanbul). It was amazing.....all homeade Turkish deliciousness. There was a huge counter of specialties...cold starters/mezzes, hot dishes, a kitchen counter full of main meals (mostly kabobs) and then a decadent counter of desserts. You just go through, point to what you want and they bring it to your table. I STUFFED myself, but the thing I remember best was the desserts (of course). I had figs stuffed with walnuts and creme, as well as a truly special warm, sweet semolina dessert with toasted almonds (I went so crazy over it, Gonca sent a box of it home with me which I had for breakfast the next morning).
Thursday night after work, my colleague Kadir took me to the trendy neighborhood of Beyoglu. We took a ferry from the office, at sunset, crossing from the Asian to the European side across the Bosphorus -- the sunset was beautiful behind the skyline of mosques, hills and bridges. Once in Beyoglu, we strolled the long pedestrian street full of bazaars, bakeries, shops and resataruants. We stopped and ate at a large, open-air restaraunt in what used to be an old flower bazaar. We had a lovely dinner of mezzes, wine and fresh fish (in Turkey, they just bring out a tray of random, fresh whole fish, you pick which one you want, and they go back and cook it for you.) I was also intrigued with all the food stands on the street cooking up a variety of yummy-smelling things, and colourful fruit stands with fruits I had never heard of before -- my favourite being erik -- which are small, green, tart plums, slightly larger than cherries. After dinner we went to a bakery where I had a very traditional Turkish dessert called Asure -- an applesauce and cereal-type concoction topped with a colourful variety of various nuts and fruit. The story goes that this was Noah's last meal on the Ark -- he basically threw all his little various leftovers into one dish -- and there you have it.
Sorry, but you know it would be no blog of mine if I didn't go on excessively about the food. Newsflash: Turkish cuisine is now officially my favourite. Oh my goodness, all the fresh fish, and yogurt, and mezzes (small salads) and green salads and kabobs....truly an amazing place to eat.
But I DID do more than eat! Friday after work, my colleague, Banu, took me to the waterside village of Ortakoy on the Bosphorus/European side -- a lovely little neighbourhood of cobblestone streets, jewellry and craft stores, restaurants with outdoor seating, and street vendors. We walked around and shopped a little (I bought some sunglasses and a necklace), then had dinner at a cosy little Turkish restaurant called Sazeli. Then we went to another cafe overlooking the water and had dessert as the sun set. There is a gorgeous mosque on the waterfront of Ortakoy called the Mecidiye (built in 1854) which is postcard-perfect, especially as the sun sets. I wont forget walking down the narrow streets, as the call to prayer eminated from the loudspeakers of the mosque, as the city fell quiet and the sun began to set....it was a bit magical and a sensation I haven't quite had before travelling in other places.
Friday night Gonca invited me out with 6 of her friends. We met at a popular fish restaurant called Doga Balik that overlooks the Bosphorus with a stellar view of "the Golden Horn" -- the part of Istanbul called Sultanahmet -- where the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, and Topkapi Palace are. I counted about 7 or 8 mosques illuminated on the Golden Horn across the dark water...it's scenery one does not forget.
It was at the restaurant I dicovered Raki -- a very traditional Turkish liquor made from distilled grapes and anis seed. It is soooo yummy. It is poured in a slender glass about a third full, and the the rest of the glass is filled with water, which turnes the Raki white. Then a few ice cubes are added, and voila -- a great cocktail to be served with food. I brought a bottle back with me to England.
After the restaurant, we went to a very trendy bar/nightclub which was really fun, but we were all kinda tired and didn't stay out too terribly late. I have no idea where we were (Gonca drove), but somewhere near Beyoglu, I think.
Saturday I did some crazy rapid sightseeing in Sultanahmet, where all the main tourist attractions are. My first stop was the Topaki Palace, which houses some pretty extravagent artifacts, including an 86 carat diamond and other assorted gems and jewels (there is also a 56 carat diamond as well). The whole palace is elaborately tiled and boasts beautiful fountains, gardens, and splendid views of the city. The most exquisite part of the palace, however, is the Harem, which you need a separate tour for. This is the most lavish part of the palace and immensely dazzling when it comes to the display of craftmanship and finery inside. Blows the mind...I will post pictures as soon as I can, you really have to see it.
After the palace, I walked over to the Hagia Sofia, which was built as an early Christian cathedral in the Nyzantine era by Justinian I as part of his reign during the late Roman Empire, but was later converted to a mosque when Istanbul became Muslim. So it's now a fusion of Christian and Muslim, and it is truly gorgeous sanctuary. I spent a lot of time inside, and got my "money shot" for this year's Christmas card! There is a gorgeous golden mosaic in the dome over the main alter of Mary and baby Jesus....so I found the right angle and got the shot!
After the Hagia Sofia, I went to the Sultanahmet Mosque, which is also known as the "Blue" Mosque since blue is the predominant colour. It is a spectacle inside and out, and is arguably the most famous and most beautiful mosque in the world. It's dazzling. Facing the Hagia Sofia, it is architecturally one of the prettiest sights I have seen.
After the mosque, I went to the Grand Bazaar, which is the largest covered market in the world. Holy crap. It is literally a small city unto itself boasting leather, lanterns, pottery, antiques, clothing, exotic carpets, food, fabric, and jewellry. It was an exhausting experience (everyone is heckling you as you walk through to come in and buy, it's a bit overwhelming, if not completely annoying!), but I managed to buy a lovely ceramic plate after about 25 minutes of haggling and getting the price down to what I considered reasonable. That was about as much energy as I had, so after purchasing my plate, I made a B-line outta there. It's visually overwhelming too with corridor upon corridor of wares.
After the Bazaar, I stopped in Ortakoy again to walk around some more, then walked around the grounds of the Ciragan Palace -- a beautiful old palace on the water surrounded by gardens (it's now been converted to a luxury hotel and special events venue). I sat on a bench for awhile in the garden on the waterfront and completely zoned out.
Saturday evening, a new friend I made Friday while out with Gonca -- Barbaros -- took me out to dinner in a sweet neighbourhood where there was a street of lively outdoor restaurants (I beleive it was called French Street, as the whole street is themed French). We had a really great dinner on a restaurant rooftop overlooking the street. He was really great to talk with and a very gracious host. After dinner, we went dancing at a fun club that played American pop music from the 80s. That was kind of fun. :)
Sunday I was really too tired to do much (I really did work pretty hard Thursday and Friday, and had two more days of work ahead of me). I walked around the neighbourhood my hotel was in and did a little browsing around Taksim Square (bought some Turkish Delight for the co-workers back in London). Then I fell asleep for about 2 hours, did some more work then went back to bed. I'm so exciting, huh?
Monday and Tuesday were busy days at work, although I did manage to get out for dinner again with Barbaros Monday evening in the neighbourhood of Kalam. The restaurant was outdoors at a lovely marina, and there were even fireworks that went off over the water as we ate. I love fireworks. We had about 6 salads/mezzes to start, then shared a whole fresh fish which they grilled on skewers with veggies. And we had more Raki, of course. :)
Oh, and one last food note: Turkish coffee and Turkish tea. Turks drink them all day long -- as did I -- the office kept me very well hydrated with both. It's a very serious ritual and addiction at it's best! I now want my own set of Turkish tea glasses (the tea is steeped in metal pots, so it has a bit of a metallic taste, which I quite like...reminds me a bit of the water at my Grams house that has an "essence" of iron).
I left on Tuesday evening. I still missed so much though -- most notably the Spice Market, the Jewish Quarter and the Galata Tower. So I must go back, that's a given -- Istanbul is truly a world unto itself.
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