My "Crash" Moment

Unlike Oprah's experience at Hermes, this is not about a brush I had with racism, but a brush I had with the back of an "Original London Tour" van last Tuesday morning. Not to overdramatise (or "over-egg the custard" as they say here), but it wasn't exactly a "brush" either...it was a pretty hard-core whack that sent me flying. It was SO not a good way to start the week -- getting hit by a car sucks! It could have been much worse though, I got off lucky.

For those who must have the details of this harrowing experience, read on!

Well, I was stepping off the curb to cross the street when a van that was parallel parked next to me backed up. All I remember was hearing myself yell (which was weird) and then being sent airborne a few feet and landing with a thud. Next thing I know, two very nice men were peeling me off the street. I was sort of in shock and couldn't speak for a few minutes. Luckily, one of the men was on the sidewalk next to me when it happened and he yelled to the driver to stop before he continued to back over me (which was really so great of him).

I'm clearly in a country where lawsuits don't happen, because the driver got out, and while apologizing profusely, gave me his name, number and license plate after asking me repeatedly if he could call an ambulance. In Manhattan, I would have been lucky if I could have come to my senses in time to catch the licence plate before the driver sped away (ok, maybe that's not totally fair, but HELLO, pretty likely).

Anyway, I could walk and move everything, so I insisted to the nice men that I was fine and continued walking to work. Fortunately, I was bundled up like the abominable snowman in a heavy coat, huge scarf and leather gloves which provided extra padding. My handbag took the brunt of the fall ("A Love Letter to Coach: How one girl's handbag saved her life...next on Oprah.")

But somewhere during the remaining two block walk to the office, I started to cry. Hysterically. Things started to hurt. I wanted my mom. And I was scared to be walking anywhere near a street at that point. Yep, so I walked right into the office like that...crying and semi-hysterical (oh well, my co-workers were going to realize I was crazy at some point). But I got over it. And I got off very lucky...it was nothing at all in the big scheme of things. All I have are some bruises and a couple minor aches.

Learnings from this little ditty? Well, I could tell you the standard fare about feeling lucky and grateful and all that, becuase that is all very true. But on a more practical note, let me also tell you about my new friend THE CROSSWALK....we're really, really close now. I think we might be together forever...I'll never cross the street again without it.

I used to tease my friend Stefanie (who lives here in London, actually) about being such a geek because she will never cross against a light. Then she told me how she got hit by a car J-walking and proceeded to show me the nasty scar that was a leftover. I half stopped teasing her then, but now I think I can put the teasing to rest for good....I'll be waiting right there next to her until that little green man lights up and the coast is clear.

Oh, and to anyone reading this who knows my Grandmother -- Do NOT mention this to her, please. She'll be on the next plane to England dragging me home and I'll never hear the end of it.

Madam Butterfly: Take Two Prozac and Call Me in the Morning.

Madam Butterfly. What a beautifully sad opera.

I know, trite. I've seen it before and know the story, but considering the ticket price, sold-out run, and swanky Hollywood director, I was hoping maybe they'd throw in a "new and improved" happy ending. No such luck.

Despite the crying I couldn't stop long after the curtain call (I blame the champagne at the first interval), it was well worth it. Staged by the English National Opera at the London Coliseum, and directed by Hollywood filmmaker Anthony Minghella (of "Cold Mountain," "The English Patient," and "The Talented Mr. Ripley" fame), the new twist on Puccini's classic was everything the reviews promised: Visualy stunning, creative, beautiful, mesmerizing...making it all that much more painful at the end. It was almost as good as Baz Luhrmann's production of "La Boheme" on Broadway. I'm a huge fan of this Hollywood director/opera trend -- opera snobs be damned....keep these hits coming!

The opera opens in silence, as a "letterbox"-style rectangle opens at the back of the stage (you know, like the letterbox/widescreen format on DVDs), creating an "epic" tone and feel as if you're about to watch a great, classic movie. The box is lit from behind and takes on many different colours and hues, reflecting the mood as the production wears on. It also serves as the entrance and exit for all cast members. Above this box is a huge mirror which provides interesting perspective on what's happening on stage. Below the box is a broad, sloping black ramp. This probably makes no sense to you (I clearly have no future as one of those people that describe what's happening on stage for the visually impaired through the little headphones) -- but suffice it to say the set was extremely well-designed, framing the cast in a magical and mesmerizing way. It was as much a part of the opera as the music.

So the letterbox opens in silence at the opera's start, backlit in red, and M. Butterfly slowly climbs up into the entrance and descends down the long ramp in silence. She is wearing a white dress, and as she walks, four long trains of red fabric follow her and stretch out in all directions, as an introduction and precursor of what's to come (as if we don't already know).

At the end of the first act, when Cio-Cio San (M. Butterfly) and Lt. Pinkney are in the throws of love, pale cherry blossom petals flutter down from the cieling for at least 20 minutes, culminating with a curtain of pink blossoms streaming down from the rafters. Ensemble members dressed all in black move a series of white lanterns around the couple amongst the blossoms, creating the effect of lanterns and stars floating on the water at night.

M. Butterfly's toddler son is played by a puppet (manned by three people dressed all in black). Which at first was freaky and kind of creeped me out. But the puppeteering (based on an ancient Japanese artform) was actually pretty stellar, and by the end of the opera I had become completely emotionally attached to that crazy little puppet! He even got a bow at curtain call, which, I thought, overstepped the boundaries a tad, but the crowd went wild. Including me. I cried even harder.

Another memorable scene involved white paper cranes flying overhead as Cio-Cio San sings with her son in an embrace, as he reaches up to try and touch the birds.

The final death scene: Completely wrecked and broken hearted by her husband's rejection (men are such pigs), she commits suicide, samaurai style, with the same sword her father used to kill himself (I told you, NOT HAPPY). Plunging the sword into her throat, with her blindfolded puppet-baby standing by (American flag in hand), red sashes unfurl from her dress. Lt. Pinkney rushes in, sees her dead, and falls to his knees in remorse. Blackout. The curtain comes down, Japanese characters scroll across it in white light. I have no idea what they said, but who cares, it was ultimate, gorgeous drama!

It was really great. Really fabulous. The singing may have been a tad weak at times, but it was still pretty good and the visual payoffs certainly made up for it. M. Butterfly was extremely talented (and oh, the glory of an opera diva's curtain call! They get SO much love, it's awesome!) I'd see it again, if there were any tickets left -- I actually had to go alone becuase I couldn't get two tickets! And can I just say, NOT a good "alone" show?

The London Coliseum is a fantastic venue, and only two blocks from my flat which made the walk home much easier. Nothing says "great night out" like a girl stumbling home alone crying in the street. ;)

"A Few Good Men" in Need of a Few Good Actors. And Maybe a Good Director Too.

"I WANT THE TRUTH!"

"YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE TRUTH!!!"

Ok, the truth is that the production of "A Few Good Men" currently playing on the West End is perhaps one of the worst acted and directed plays I have ever seen. My friend Kim was slightly kinder -- she thought it rated with a somewhat decent high school performance.

The only redeeming quality is that it was SO bad, it was laugh-out-loud funny, thereby making the ticket price almost worth it for the giggles after a rough day at work. And from the groans and outbursts of laugher from fellow audience members (at highly inapropriate moments, I might add), I was not alone in my opinion.

Where to start....

First of all, many people do not know that "A Few Good Men" was a play before it was a movie. And it's a gripping, well-written play at that. Then the movie came along with stellar direction and blockbuster performances by Jack Nicholson, Tom Cruise, Demi Moore, and Kevin Bacon. Right there, it probably should have been retired from the stage forever, because once a movie is made word-for-word from a play and turns out that well, every production thereafter will be unfairly compared and criticised.

The first fatal mistake was that they obviously tried to cast the play with actors that looked like the stars from the movie -- the director clearly had no faith that the audience would appreciate other interpretations. Worse than that, the actors attempted to play the characters exactly as Tom, Demi and Jack would have played them....making them come across as mediocre impersonators.

Eighties heartthrob, Rob Lowe, played the lead role as Lt. Daniel Kaffee. And while he is still drop-dead gorgeous (Hello Dorian Gray -- the guy looks AMAZING!), he is in no way a stage actor. Yes, he was dreamy in "St. Elmos Fire." He was believable on the "The West Wing." Heck, I even liked him when he made a comeback in "Austin Powers." But I dare say his talent has not carried over to the stage. He jumped on lines. His timing was off. He went for the cheap laughs. He did this weird talking-out-the-side-of-his-mouth thing that was really annoying. I know he and (playwright) Aaron Sorkin are good buddies, but this was ridiculous casting.

Far worse were the actors playing Lt Cdr Joanne Galloway (Demi Moore's character in the movie) and Col Nathan Jessep (played in the film by Jack Nicholson). The actress playing Lt Galloway delivered her lines at mock speed, as if she might forget them if she didn't spew them out fast enough. Moreover, she held a striking resemblance to Molly Shannon's "Mary Katherine Gallagher" character on Saturday Night Live...we kept expecting her to leap out into the audience yelling "Superstar!"

The actor trying very hard to be Jack Nicholson, while he did somewhat resemble him, came across as being entirely too effeminate for a tough-as-nails Marine colonel. And the actor playing Lt Jack Ross seemed as if he might break out into song and dance at any moment...so it came as no surprise to see that his recent credits included roles in the musicals "Chicago," "The Producers" and "Sunset Boulevard." I think his hair styling might have been a leftover from his "Chicago" run -- definitely not Marine Corps regulation.

And why is it that actors and directors insist military roles be played with bad, exaggerated southern accents that can't be matched to specific states or regions? Most American actors can't get that accent right, much less Brits. They must think the whole U.S. military hails from Texas or Louisiana. I would have preferred they just kept their British accent and let us use our imaginations. You could physically see the audience shudder every time the actor playing Pfc Laudon Downey yelled "Sir!" -- it came out as a twisted garbled mess that felt more and more like a knife in the head as the play wore on.

Finally, I'd be remiss not to mention the "artistic" treatment of scene changes. As the courtroom set was being shifted in dim lighting, actors dressed as Marines in camoflauge would descend from the ceiling from ropes as if they were being airlifted into and out of the courtroom. During a couple changes, soldiers came out with machine guns, miming as if they were tiptoing through a dark field in battle. On one change, a Marine in full dress blues came out and did an elaborate gun-twirling routine (think that's called a drill) right smack in the middle of the courtroom. It was weird. It was awkward. It made no sense. It was laughable. It was what you'd get if you crossed military bootcamp with Cirque du Soleil. Hey -- there's the next Cirque du Soleil concept -- Marinetastica!

In college, I had a good friend named Mike, and we were obsessed with bad theatre. We would seek out the worst of the worst, just for a good laugh. Highlights included an exceptionally bad dinner theatre production of "1776," where there were too few men so women played some of the male roles. Another standout was "Civil War" (a rock-opera about the Civil War, need I say more?) on Broadway -- think that one closed the night it opened. Anyway, I'm sorry that Mike could not have been here to share this one with me -- it no doubt would have made our greatest hits.

Epitaph for George Dillon

Friday night I saw the play "Epitaph for George Dillion" starring the dreamy Joseph Fiennes. It was extremely well casted and acted. However, the play itself was really bad and very boring. I'd sum it up by saying it was kind of like an Arthur Miller play, but with a bad plot and not at all interesting.

My Halloween Jack O' Lantern

My friend Lisa had a pumpkin carving party for Halloween and this was my output. Over the years I have developed an unatural fear of large knives (I think it comes from never cooking/using them), so this was a challenge for me --they don't have those handy, idiot-proof pumpkin carving kits here that they sell in the States. Anyway, it was fun, and the other party guests thought my pumpkin looked like a "South Park" character.

Windsor Castle

My friend Amelia and I took the train out to Windsor to tour the Queen's castle, which made for a really nice day. I probably shouldn't admit this, but I'm an audio tour junkie, so we rented hansets and spent two hours roaming the beautifully restored State Apartments (much of it was destroyed in the 1992 fire, so a massive restoration was just completed). We also got to see Queen Mary's dollhouse (rather "Twighlight Zone" if you ask me). St. George's chapel was closed since it was Sunday and services were in order, so I have to go back to see that another time. After touring the castle, we walked across the bridge to Eton, which was very pretty at sunset.

The castle is the largest in the world still used as a residence. It's impressive. And on a beautiful Fall day, it made for a lovely and interesting walkabout.

Here are some pictures!


Castle Gate





Amelia






The Queen's Jubilee Gardens


St. George's Chapel









The Big Tower





Cat at the Castle









Eaton at Sunset

Official Apology to Germany

I begin this post with a sincere and humble apology to Germany. To be perfectly honest, I had zero interest in going there, and of all the European countries on my hitlist, Germany very well may have placed at the bottom. I mean, let's face it...with a dark past that includes Hitler, sauerkraut and David Hasselhoff (those things not being of equal darkness), Germany could use some good PR.

Or maybe that's what the Germans WANT outsiders like myself to beleive so that we don't all come flocking to their nice country. But thanks to my good friend Alicia, who lives outside of Heidelberg with her husband Christian, I have now seen the light. I went only to see her and catch up, but flew away with a whole new view of a beautiful and friendly place.

Hey Look -- It's Fall!
For a girl who grew up on a farm and won top honours for her kindergarten halloween costume as a tree, I sure have forgotten about trees and how pretty they are in autumn. But then again, living in NYC and London does not afford many an opportunity to be reminded. Anyway, as we were walking and driving along the Neckar River Valley and the Rhine River all weekend, I was floored by the soft, rolling hills alive with intense hues of orange, yellow and green. It was truly splendid, especially with the red-tiled roofs, church steeples and pale walls peeking out of the foliage from the scattered villages spread along the river and hillsides. Moreover, Germany has it's own custom pallette of colours that made me feel like I was viewing the world through some magic filter.

The Land of Spargel and Schmuck
Alicia & Christian live out in the country, in a neighborhood surrounded by fields. Right now, they are blanketed in soft, tall yellow flowers that contrasted sharply against the crisp blue sky. But in May and June, Alicia tells me the fields are bursting with spargel, or white asparagus, which is practically the national food of Germany during that season. Even more interesting she says, is that the people who typically harvest the spargel are Polish farmers, and that the men strip down to what can only be compared to a skimpy loincloth in the hot summer sun. She says it makes for an interesting drive through the fields on the way home....I can only imagine! (I think that may call for a new series of paintings inspired by Millet's famous potato farmer paintings.) I just wish I had been there in season. I love white asparagus!

"Schmuck" means jewelry in German, so we kept passing Scmuck stores everywhere. I thought that was funny. I love schmuck. Just kind of a bad word (when heard in English) for something that's so wonderful!

What I Saw in Heidelberg : Day 1
Saturday, we wandered all through the quaint streets of Heidleberg. We popped into a store specializing in liquors...I bought a couple bottles of rhubarb liquor, becuase I love everything rhubarb. We also peeked into the town's main cathedral (very big and gothic and beautiful).

We crossed the old bridge (great story, it was blown up in WWII, but some very dedicated people dove into the river, gathered all the stone fragments, and rebuilt the bridge) and did a hike up the river hillside to enjoy the view looking down on the city. It's important to mention here that Alicia is 7 months pregnant, yet she did this little climb with me. The girl is seriously in good shape and a true adventurer. I was impressed. I think I was more out of breath than she was! The walk along the hillside was so pretty, and provided great views of the city, the old bridge, the river, the famous Heidelberg University, and the giant castle on the other side of the river bank.

After the climb, we came back down into town and stopped at a little cafe for lunch. Which was good...we both got something they called a baguette. No bread, just two warm blocks of goat cheese baked in butter, olive oil, and topped with peppers, olives, tomato and served with a lovely side salad. As my neice Catherine would say, "Oh my gosh, it was soooo good."

After lunch, I bought some gummy bears, then we drove up the hillside to the massive Heidelberg castle (or "schloss" as they are called in German) that peers over the city. We wandered around the perimeter and went inside the main walls. Much of the castle is in ruin...many additions were built over the years, so it's sort of a "collage" of castle parts. It's beautiful though, and the front terrace affords gorgeous views of the city. By this time of day, the light was amazing, the weather was good, and it was so peaceful and gorgeous. We hung around for awhile chatting and enjoying the grounds and views. Oh, there were also sheep roaming the hillside in front of the castle. I don't know if I'd ever seen lots of big fluffy sheep like that before. There was even a baby.


After the castle, we were tired. So we went back to Alicia's house, poured through the massive stack of English-language trash/tabloid magazines I had brought per Alicia's request, and took a nap. Around 8:30ish, we got ready, went back into town and ate at a very traditional German restaurant. I'd say Germany's food is right up there with English food in terms of browness and heaviness. Ok, maybe it's even heavier and more brown. But it was pretty good. I had two pork cutlets in a thick brown sauce served with two large bready-dumpling things that were like balls of stuffing. We also got a side of red cabbage, a German specialty that was tasty (was sweet). Oh, I had a beer too (of course!) After dinner, we hit a gelato shop for dessert, then went home and called it a night.

Wandering Castle Ruins & Speyer: Day 2
Sunday, we got up, went into town and met a friend of Alicia's (Annetta) for brunch. The menu was huge and I couldn't read any of it, so Alicia spent about an hour translating it for me. I decided on some tea, scrambled eggs, fruit, yogurt and bread. Was good. Anetta was one of Alicia's German teachers when she first arrived. I'd say she taught her well given Alicia's now mastery of the language! Anetta's expecting a baby too -- everyone seems to be pregnant.

After brunch, Alicia and I drove up the gorgeous Neckar Valley and did a hike along three castle ruins. They were very pretty, and I climbed to the top of two of the towers. One climb was very dark though. Actually, pitch black, so I felt my way along the stairs hoping I would not trip in the black void and fall to my death. Clearly, Germany has no concerns about liability and lawsuits (or, they assume you'll be smart enough to bring a flashlight). But the view from the top of the tower was well worth the risk.

Next, we drove to the town of Speyer (located on the Rhine river; was a major Celtic center; developed by Romans, but sacked by Huns ca. 450 AD; rebuilt in 7th cen.; ruled by powerful bishops from 10th cen.; major trading center by 11th cen.; destroyed by French in War of Grand Alliance in 1689.)

We visited the lovely cathedral in the town's center which is HUGE. It was founded by Conrad II in 1050 and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site...it was the biggest church of its time. Really a massive and gorgeous structure with a huge dome and 4 towers. And Episcopalian no less (I'm Episcopalian so I always like that in a church). Despite its size, it is a very simply designed and decorated church inside with none of the usual gaudy decor. Almost refreshing and zen-like. We went down into the crypt which was interesting -- it is the resting place of at least 8 medievil German emperors and kings.

From the church, we wandered down Speyer's main street to a lovely, wide tower called the Altportal. The town's main street (Maximilianstrasse) has been refurbished and looks brand new. It has the charm of a Disneyland street or Naples, FL -- with impeccable pastel coloured buildings and a picture-perfect cobblestone road. Alicia and I took a break at an outside cafe where we people watched over steamy cappuccinos and two huge slices of cake. It had gotten kind of chilly out, but the cafe provided warm fleece blankets to cover up with which was a nice touch. I'm telling you, these Germans really know how to host a crowd. ;)

After our wander of Speyer, we headed back to Alicia's house....I had to get back to make my 10:10pm flight back to London that night.

Alicia & Christian's Abode
A & C live in a nice, big house in a darling neighborhood. There is a large, artistic oven in the main living area that Alicia tells me 1) does not heat the house or 2) cook anything. But it sure does look nice. It's three stories, plus a basement (the house, not the oven). I felt like I was staying at a little hotel. They also have a nicely landscaped backyard, referred to as "gardens" in Germany.

Christian had been hiking in the Alps all weekend with friends, so Alicia and I had a true girls weekend. But he returned before I left on Sunday evening, so we all had a nice pasta dinner together at their house. It was nice to see him again...he is a very nice guy (and a very tired guy after his weekend escapade). I predict the Lenze baby will be hiking before she can even walk...it will be in the genes. ;)

Really, there are castsles EVERYWHERE!!!
On the drive to the Frankfurt airport Sunday night, I was just floored by all the castles in Germany. They are everywhere, and all lit up at night along the roads and hills. It's pretty cool, and now I want to go back to see more! I definitely feel a castle obsession coming on. My neices, who loves princesses and fairy tales, would be very envious.

One last "I'm sorry," fair Deutchland!
So Germany, I am soooo sorry I doubted you, but I promise never to do it again. I had a really great, relaxing weekend, even with all we did. And I now want to return to see more -- Bavaria, Berlin, Munich and Hamburg in particular. And the quick flight from London will make that pretty darn easy.

The TV Police

I received a rather threatening letter in my mailbox yesterday from the TV Licensing Board. It was addressed to the previous resident of my flat saying that my apartment was under investigation for not paying the TV licensing fee. The letter goes on to say that they are watching me and that this is a serious offense with a £1,000 fine for offenders.

What the....? Well, In the United Kingdom, citizens must pay a licence if they own a television set. Not for cable or satellite, just for the regular old 5 channels you get when you plug the set in. The British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) is a government agency that has the power to tax and enforce laws. In order to obtain funding, the BBC requires that anyone using its services must pay for them. The annual cost (set by the government) is currently £126.50.

But you say, "Ha! Try and PROVE that I'm watching the tele," right? Well, they have the means to enforce it too! Government enforcers (who I like to call "The TV Police") actually patrol the streets of England in vans rigged with cutting-edge technology that can detect when a TV is on inside a home that has not paid the TV license. Then, when an offender is identified, they come knocking on your door to catch you in the act and slap you with the hefty fine! I visulize this to look like the high-action drug busts I've seen on the TV show "Cops," but with people scrambling to flush the TV down the toilet instead of the drugs. Hey, this would make for some quality reality TV here in the U.K.!

So, needless to say, I took care of this little situation first thing this morning. The last thing I need are the TV police to come knocking on my door as I'm suffering through one of the very bad, low-budget American movies from the early 1980s that the BBC makes available each evening (last night they aired the Burt Reynolds classic "Every Which Way But Loose" -- I rest my case).

I am curious though, what do the "TV police" uniforms look like?

Erica & Andy...Together Forever (Just like that Rick Astley song)

Greetings!

I took a whirlwind trip to Boston last weekend for my friend Erica's wedding -- it was lots of fun, despite the long travel for the short trip! She and her new husband (the delightful Andy Murray) got married in the city center and had the reception at the lovely Gamble Mansion. It rained for the better part of the weekend, but that didn't ruin the fun! It was also a nice reunion for my best gal pals, Kate, Molly and Melinda, who were all there as well (the three of them, Erica and I have a girls beach weekend tradition that goes back many years from when we all lived in DC -- we were rather inseparable). So, a joyful "Cheers!" to Erica and Andy (who are now lounging on a beach in Hawaii and definitely not concerning themselves with this blog).

Oh, I must also mention that their wedding announcement made it into the New York Times on Sunday....which is, um, no easy feat!

Sunday, before leaving, I met up with my sweet friends Dan and Ellen Pedro, who walked around town with me and then introduced me to Boston's charming Oak Bar where we had a cocktail. It was wonderful seeing them.

Here are some pix from the wedding...

Cutting the cake













Erica and Andy, post wedding, at their brunch on Sunday


















The Gals: Me, Melinda, Molly and Kate













There was crazy dancing all night....with Melinda in the lead, as always. She is about 6 months pregnant, so this is adorable and impressive at the same time. The groom's father actually thanked her for being the life of the party (true story).

This is Melinda and her hubby Jeff. Aren't they cute? Jeff is one of my favorite guys in the world becuase he is totally fun and cool and can hang with all girls and actually enjoy it (or at least he does a good job pretending)! He always fits right in and contributes to the good time at hand.

Gaudy? No Silly, Gaudi! (Barcelona)

I am in Spain. Barcelona, to be exact. I had meetings here for work yesterday and today, and am staying the weekend to sightsee and play.

So far, Barcelona is great. The architecture here is wild and whimsical (that would be Antoni Gaudi´s architecture, of course). We toured Gaudi´s La Pedrera building today on our lunch break -- it is across the street from the Edelman office. It´s almost Disney-like...looks like a big birthday cake. I will post my pictures as soon as I get back to England.

The food is wonderful. Darling tasty little sandwiches for lunch, pastries for snacks and tapas for dinner. And lots of coffee to balance the little sleep I´m getting. I´ve also been drinking lots of Rioja...after all, when in Spain...

The weather is gorgeous -- warm, sunny, a little muggy. Might be nice to head to the beach, but I have too much to see and do here in the city, so that´s a last priority.

Our office here is lovely, and I must say, my Spanish colleagues (Blanca, Javier and Vanessa) are perhaps some of the warmest, friendliest and most genuine people I have ever met. Good hosts too. It was a true pleasure spending the two days in meetings with them and getting to know them, lovely people all around.

Last night I stayed in the swanky Hotel Omm (winner of the 2005 Travel + Leisure magazine design award). As a matter of fact, it was SO swanky I could not even work the room. Ultra hip, modern and minimalist, it had a million light switches and electric curtains and shades. The nightstand lit up and everything was white. The flat-screen TV was built into a space-age looking white plastic wall. I had to go to the bathroom in the dark becuase I never figured out how to turn the lights on. There were instructions, but they were in Spanish and I was too tired and lazy to get out my dictionary and translate (besides, no one really wants to insult their intelligence by reading directions for a light switch) Oh yes, and the hallways...they are pitch-black-dark, but when you step off the elevators, bright white runway lights come on either side of the hall. Baffling at first...like I had been dumped on the runway at LaGuardia airport or a Fashion Week catwalk (ok, a runway at LaGuardia definitely more probable for me). But there was a nice little balcony with chairs off my room that I sat on for awhile and did some reading. That is, once I figured out how to open the door. I know it sounds bizarre, but I´m not kidding. Hundreds of dollars a night to go to the bathroom in the dark becuase I´m seemingly too stupid to figure out how to turn on the lights. Guess the Motel 8 is more my speed. But hey, according to their slogan, "they´ll leave a light on" -- so that would have come in handy.

Tonight and tomorrow, since I´m on my own dollar now, I have moved to another neighborhood and am staying in the very cozy, but far-easier-to-operate, AC Hotel Vilamari. I am pleased to say I can work everything in this hotel and have not found myself befuddled or in the dark yet.

Last night, we (my Edelman colleagues from all over Europe) ate at this crazy cool restaurant at the top of this very tall tower overlookig the Mediterranean Sea. As we were eating, a massive, 20-minute fireworks extravaganza went off in honor of a national holiday they are celebrating today. These fireworks were SPECTACULAR -- completely making up for the pathetic display I saw in London on Sunday. And the best part was that they were eye level since we were up so high...it was like we were in them. I sat there mesermized, in awe that I was 1) in Spain 2) having a great dinner and 3) literally part of an outrageous fireworks display. It was beautiful.

Tomorrow I have a lot of sightseeing to do. I plan to visit another Gaudi house, the Sagrada Familia Cathedral (also Gaudi), Park Guell and the Gaudi museum, wander the Gothic neighborhood, and visit La Boqueria, the city´s largest food market. I also want to shop, as there are a ton of pretty things here to buy. Danger.

Viva Espana!

Postscript:

Over the weekend, I went wild running around the city to see everything I had on my list. I visited Gaudi's Sagrada Familia cathedral (wild! crazy! weird!); walked all around Park Guell (also designed by Gaudi where I climbed to the very top overlooking the whole city and the Med Sea, also toured a house in the park that he lived in); wandered the windy, narrow streets of the Gothic neighborhood and toured its wonderful cathedral and cloisters (also took in the view from the roof); ate paella (yum!); visited the fantastic Catalan Art Museum in the Palau Nacional (where I discovered the artist Ramon Casas, who I now love); walked through the Olympic village; went to the Caixa Forum, a cultural arts center where I saw an Art Nouveau exhibit; strolled Las Ramblas; admired a gigantic, colorful Joan Miro sculpture in a park named after the artist; and did a bit more shopping (of course). The Boqueria market was closed unfortunately for the holiday weekend (it was Barcelona's annual Merce festival), so that was a little dissapointing, but it's not like I lacked for things to see. Needless to say, I was way exhausted by the time I made it to the airport Sunday night -- but what a great visit. What a great city! Following are a few more pictures...

Enjoying Park Guell








The Edelman Group on the roof of Casa Mila La Pedrera








Joan Miro sculpture












The creepy Sagrada Familia Cathedral (by Gaudi)












The dome at Palau Nacional












My fancy red shoes I purchased in Barcelona on two very exhausted feet (I took this in the back of the cab going to the airport)

The "Yes" Girl

This past weekend was an exercise in saying “yes” to everything I was invited to do, and I must say, it turned out pretty well!

Friday Night: Parson’s Green

Friday night, my new friend Dominic invited me out with him and some friends at the White Horse Pub in Parsons Green (about a 20-minute taxi ride from my neighborhood), followed by dinner at another pub a few minutes away. What an unusual crowd that was….Dom, three of his English friends, and about seven Americans from Tennessee. Dom went to Vanderbilt in Nashville, so it was a combination of classmates/friends who now live in London, and some others that had come to visit. They were a loud, fun crowd, it was just odd to be in England surrounded by a group of boisterous American Southerners. At first, I hesitated when I received the invite out of fear of showing up alone, not knowing anyone and looking like a loser (I’d only met Dom once). But reason kicked in that the alternative was to hang out by myself on a Friday night at home watching the BBC, eating a pizza and drinking a bottle of wine (which, um, is what I did many a Friday night in NYC, even with other options), so that didn’t sound like a very good plan either. After all, now is the time to be a little bold considering I’m in a new town where no one will just magically come knocking on my door. And as it turned out, gabbing inanely and laughing with a bunch of crazy strangers while sharing a sticky toffee pudding turned out to be a pretty good evening. (NOTE: The sticky toffee pudding was tasty, but in England, “pudding” just kinda means dessert….it was not pudding, just toffee-flavored cake. And not even that sticky, now that I think back on it.)

Saturday: Big Bus Tour, Tea, and The Offspring


Saturday morning, I met my friends Jon and Tania for a 2.5 hour Big Bus Tour around London. You know, the double decker bus gig. John and Tania have lived here for years but had never done the tour, so it was fun (and funny) being a tourist with them...we were all snapping pictures and oooing and aaahing the whole way. It was a GORGEOUS day with sunny blue skies and white puffy clouds. The tour itself was great, but I must say, Jon and Tania were really the main attraction. Boy do those kids know how to be tourists in style. They showed up with a six-pack of Belgian beer, a thermos of hot toddies (my new favorite drink: whisky, hot water and sugar), and sandwiches and salad from Marks & Spencer. So needless to say, we ate and drank our way through the Big Bus Tour, sitting on top of the bus in the open air with the wind in our hair. Couldn’t understand a word the tour guide was saying (it all sounded like Charlie Brown teacher speak to me), but the sights were great in the glorious weather and it was nice to get out and about.


After the bus tour, we went into Fortnum & Mason on Picadilly, a very famous department store with an unbelievable food hall on the main floor. There really is nothing to compare this type of thing to in the States. Like the food hall at Harrod’s, Fortnum & Mason wows you, and the pictures here show you why: Chocolates, truffles, and candy as far as the eye can see. Vats of exotic coffee beans. Tin upon glorious tin of rare teas. Rows of crackers, cheese, olive oil, pate, cookies, crackers, biscuits, crisps, pastries, jellies, jams, and nuts. Honey in every shade of gold from far corners of the world. Beautifully packaged gifts packed in wooden boxes, shiny paper, colorful tins and ceramic pots. It’s like being, um, a kid in a candy store! The outside windows and inside displays are whimsically magical, and the posh carpeting and crystal chandeliers finish off the decadent experience of being in the place. I think I want to live there.

After being overwhelmed by hand selecting a box of chocolate truffles for a thank you gift I needed for someone, we went upstairs to the tea parlor. We each got a pot of tea and some biscuits (cookies) and sat gabbing on the comfy sofas for a couple hours and listening to the piano player. We left right before the 4pm afternoon tea rush.

Saturday evening, my new friend Margot (she is originally from Atlanta and has lived in London for 4 years) invited me to jpin her to go see/hear the American rock band “The Offspring” play in Brixton Saturday night. I haven’t rocked out like that since Christy Gagnon’s dad took us to the Duran Duran concert in the 7th grade. The concert was loud and fun (kind of like the dinner crowd Friday night, albeit a bit louder and sans Southern accents.) After the concert, we went to a nearby pub for a cocktail to avoid the post-concert tube crowds. Brixton is an interesting neighborhood -- it’s what you’d get if you crossed Harlem with the Lower East Side in NYC. Very cool ‘hood with interesting and seemingly nice people.

Sunday: Say “Om,” Carnivale and Fireworks

Sunday afternoon I went to yoga class at the gym. I really like the instructor and will make a regular go of it. I felt great after, although I am writing this two days later and am still sore. It’s a substantial class -- an hour and a half. I twisted myself in every conceivable pretzel position known to man. And maybe some not known to man until Sunday. I even did a headstand, with some initial help from the instructor. How did I do that as a kid?! I used to stand on my head for hours in the family room while watching TV. I think the world made more sense to me upside down at that point in my life. As a matter of fact, the world seemed to make more sense to me again upside down in yoga class. Blood rushing to the head -- a good thing on occasion. Perhaps I need to practice that maneuver some more in my flat. Maybe I can even work that way.

Sunday evening I walked down to Victoria Embankment along the river and caught the Thames River Festival parade, which started at 8pm. It was an hour-long Brazilian Carnival-themed parade of Samba music, brightly-coloured lanterns, bands, dancers, floats, and scantily-clad women in feathers. It was very fun and festive, and I snapped so many pictures that my camera batteries died halfway through. I even saw the Mayor of Westminster up close (oooooohhhhh). He seemed to be enjoying the scantily-clad women. His wife however, did not.

After the parade, I made my way up to Blackfriar’s Bridge to get a good vantage point to watch the festival’s closing night fireworks over the Thames. I stood waiting an hour for them to start, crammed into a crowd of hundreds, and they lasted, oh, about 5 minutes. NYC definitely trumps London in the fireworks department. The standard sparks set off for the symphony concerts in Central Park alone last longer than that! Oh well, again, nothing better to do, and it was a great night, so no complaints…

Here's a picture of my favorite parade entry: The piggies with knives and forks....they were dancing to the song "I Shot the Sherriff" by Bob Marley...classic!

So that was my weekend of being a yes girl. With days like these, who wants to say no?

My Neighborhood/Good Measure

Thought you might like to see a picture of my neighborhood. That’s Covent Garden Market in the back with the green roof. My flat is in the building on the far right with the red roof. That’s me on the left, in blue, talking with my neighbor Richard…we ran into each other coming out of Cafe Nero (funny, he was wearing blue today too). Oh, and that’s St. Martins-In-the-Fields church in the center of town.

Ha! I’m just kidding! This is not really my neighborhood!

But seriously, isn’t this toy village cute? I found it in a Japanese design store called Muji on my way home from work today. I kind of freaked when I saw it, because I had one just like it (but with many more pieces) when I was a little kid. And I had totally forgotten all about it until I saw this today. The nostalgia was too much, I had to have it (it’s called “Village in a Bag”). Oh, and Elizabeth, don’t show this to Catherine since she, Elise and unborn sister will each be getting a set for Christmas (Because I’m sure my niece Catherine, who is 6, reads this blog.)

I’m sure by now my mother is frantically searching the English yellow pages for a good therapist, so following, you can see REAL pictures of my neighborhood!












Tonight was my first visit to the gym I joined, so to celebrate the 35 minutes I ran on the treadmill, I am now enjoying some yummy cheese and crackers. Think I’ve just about eaten all the calories I burned, so I’m good. Oh, and can I just say that I LOVE these British scales?? When I got on tonight in the locker room, I was delighted to see the needle hit 63…kilograms are sweet! I’ve been trying to get down to double digits for some time now, this English diet must be working already! Even better, the scales also register “stones,” and I was only 9-10 of those! (A “stone” is 14 lbs in Brit speak, BTW). I am loving this country’s measures!

Ok, I think I have probably worn out my welcome for this post. Goodnight. ;)

Mayo: The Official Condiment of England

I know...kinda bad that after more than a week here, what I find most compelling to lead with today is mayonnaise. But really...they like it here...on everything! It's rarely optional. This is kind of an issue for me becuase I don't like it, except in my Grandmother's chicken salad, which is the only excpetion.

Takeaway sandwich shops are everywhere in London...PRET and EAT are the big chains here (we have Pret in NYC too). Anyway, these shops boast row upon row of pre-made sandwiches in a huge variety of combinations -- the common demometer being that they are all loaded with mayo (except one sandwich I was able to find Friday with yogurt dressing...it was the only sandwich with the big "MAYO FREE" sticker on it.)

Today, I stopped into Ultimate Burger on New Oxford Street. Was starving, and the "Portobello Mushroom Burger with spicey BBQ sauce" caught my eye. So I went in and got one. I assumed that becuase it had spicey BBQ sauce on it, it would not have mayo too...wrong! So, the lesson here is that no matter what you are ordering, always ask that it NOT have mayo on it. Doesn't matter if I'm ordering a chocolate chip cookie...I'm still going to request that they hold the mayo, just in case. ;)

Ok, now that THAT is out of the way...

I thought I was going to venture around the city much more than I did this weekend. Friday, I went to the pub after work with my new co-workers, but was tired and called it a night fairly early.

Yesterday, I met my friend Stefanie and her boyfriend Ashley for lunch at a great little Brazilian Cafe in Neal's Yard/7 Dials (that's about a 5 minute walk from my flat). I've included a picture...that was the first time I had met Ashley and he was so fun.


After lunch, I set out to explore Regent and Oxford Streets, which are major shopping streets in London. And that's pretty much what I did all day. Spent about 2.5 hours in Topshop, which is sort of like an H&M (cheap, trendy clothes) only HUGE....like 4 floors, it was endless and I was lost! I must have made 4 trips to the dressing rooms, but still walked away with nothing -- nothing seemed to fit right. (I'm still trying to get a grip on English/European style...) I did make one purchase though....a bag of gummy candies from the candy shop on the way out, so I did not walk away empty-handed. ;)

This is a shot of Regent Street to the right.

After Topshop, I went to Purves Purves (I know, nice name, huh?) on Tottenham Court Road, a very cool design store that my co-worker Rory told me about. Very cool stuff for the home...furniture, accessories, decor, gadgets, cookware...it was fun to browse around -- it put me in mind of the Conran Shop in NYC. I picked up a few odds and ends for my flat.

I then walked around by the British Museum and Bloomsbury Square. I got turned around and wasn't sure where I was (was too tired to make sense of the map), so I jumped in a taxi and got a lift home...I wasn't that far away from home (the taxi driver must have thought I was REALLY lazy), but I was tired from all the walking and didn't feel like figuring it out.

This morning, I found a great gym a couple blocks away from my flat that I joined, so I am very excited to begin working out tomorrow morning. Then, I went into the office to help Rory paint a room we are redecorating into a creative brainstorming space. After that, I ran some errands, got a bite to eat, then came home. It was a nice weekend. But next weekend I promise to be more adventurous....there is so much to see here, honestly, I'm a bit overwhelmed and don't know where to start! The list of must-dos is daunting, almost paralyzing. I did get a better sense of how the city is laid out this weekend, so that was at least helpful.

The weather definitely turned today though...it has been warm and sunny, in the 80s, every day since I arrived. Today was much cooler and gray...even chilly later in the day. People were wearing sweaters (or jumpers, as they are called here). Quite a change, but it sort of felt good after the heat.

That's all the latest for now....I know, I'll try to do something more exciting next weekend for more compelling reporting!