Sunday, October 30, 2005

Windsor Castle

My friend Amelia and I took the train out to Windsor to tour the Queen's castle, which made for a really nice day. I probably shouldn't admit this, but I'm an audio tour junkie, so we rented hansets and spent two hours roaming the beautifully restored State Apartments (much of it was destroyed in the 1992 fire, so a massive restoration was just completed). We also got to see Queen Mary's dollhouse (rather "Twighlight Zone" if you ask me). St. George's chapel was closed since it was Sunday and services were in order, so I have to go back to see that another time. After touring the castle, we walked across the bridge to Eton, which was very pretty at sunset.

The castle is the largest in the world still used as a residence. It's impressive. And on a beautiful Fall day, it made for a lovely and interesting walkabout.

Here are some pictures!


Castle Gate





Amelia






The Queen's Jubilee Gardens


St. George's Chapel









The Big Tower





Cat at the Castle









Eaton at Sunset

Monday, October 24, 2005

Official Apology to Germany


I begin this post with a sincere and humble apology to Germany. To be perfectly honest, I had zero interest in going there, and of all the European countries on my hitlist, Germany very well may have placed at the bottom. I mean, let's face it...with a dark past that includes Hitler, sauerkraut and David Hasselhoff (those things not being of equal darkness), Germany could use some good PR.

Or maybe that's what the Germans WANT outsiders like myself to beleive so that we don't all come flocking to their nice country. But thanks to my good friend Alicia, who lives outside of Heidelberg with her husband Christian, I have now seen the light. I went only to see her and catch up, but flew away with a whole new view of a beautiful and friendly place.

Hey Look -- It's Fall!
For a girl who grew up on a farm and won top honours for her kindergarten halloween costume as a tree, I sure have forgotten about trees and how pretty they are in autumn. But then again, living in NYC and London does not afford many an opportunity to be reminded. Anyway, as we were walking and driving along the Neckar River Valley and the Rhine River all weekend, I was floored by the soft, rolling hills alive with intense hues of orange, yellow and green. It was truly splendid, especially with the red-tiled roofs, church steeples and pale walls peeking out of the foliage from the scattered villages spread along the river and hillsides. Moreover, Germany has it's own custom pallette of colours that made me feel like I was viewing the world through some magic filter.

The Land of Spargel and Schmuck
Alicia & Christian live out in the country, in a neighborhood surrounded by fields. Right now, they are blanketed in soft, tall yellow flowers that contrasted sharply against the crisp blue sky. But in May and June, Alicia tells me the fields are bursting with spargel, or white asparagus, which is practically the national food of Germany during that season. Even more interesting she says, is that the people who typically harvest the spargel are Polish farmers, and that the men strip down to what can only be compared to a skimpy loincloth in the hot summer sun. She says it makes for an interesting drive through the fields on the way home....I can only imagine! (I think that may call for a new series of paintings inspired by Millet's famous potato farmer paintings.) I just wish I had been there in season. I love white asparagus!

"Schmuck" means jewelry in German, so we kept passing Scmuck stores everywhere. I thought that was funny. I love schmuck. Just kind of a bad word (when heard in English) for something that's so wonderful!

What I Saw in Heidelberg : Day 1
Saturday, we wandered all through the quaint streets of Heidleberg. We popped into a store specializing in liquors...I bought a couple bottles of rhubarb liquor, becuase I love everything rhubarb. We also peeked into the town's main cathedral (very big and gothic and beautiful).

We crossed the old bridge (great story, it was blown up in WWII, but some very dedicated people dove into the river, gathered all the stone fragments, and rebuilt the bridge) and did a hike up the river hillside to enjoy the view looking down on the city. It's important to mention here that Alicia is 7 months pregnant, yet she did this little climb with me. The girl is seriously in good shape and a true adventurer. I was impressed. I think I was more out of breath than she was! The walk along the hillside was so pretty, and provided great views of the city, the old bridge, the river, the famous Heidelberg University, and the giant castle on the other side of the river bank.

After the climb, we came back down into town and stopped at a little cafe for lunch. Which was good...we both got something they called a baguette. No bread, just two warm blocks of goat cheese baked in butter, olive oil, and topped with peppers, olives, tomato and served with a lovely side salad. As my neice Catherine would say, "Oh my gosh, it was soooo good."

After lunch, I bought some gummy bears, then we drove up the hillside to the massive Heidelberg castle (or "schloss" as they are called in German) that peers over the city. We wandered around the perimeter and went inside the main walls. Much of the castle is in ruin...many additions were built over the years, so it's sort of a "collage" of castle parts. It's beautiful though, and the front terrace affords gorgeous views of the city. By this time of day, the light was amazing, the weather was good, and it was so peaceful and gorgeous. We hung around for awhile chatting and enjoying the grounds and views. Oh, there were also sheep roaming the hillside in front of the castle. I don't know if I'd ever seen lots of big fluffy sheep like that before. There was even a baby.


After the castle, we were tired. So we went back to Alicia's house, poured through the massive stack of English-language trash/tabloid magazines I had brought per Alicia's request, and took a nap. Around 8:30ish, we got ready, went back into town and ate at a very traditional German restaurant. I'd say Germany's food is right up there with English food in terms of browness and heaviness. Ok, maybe it's even heavier and more brown. But it was pretty good. I had two pork cutlets in a thick brown sauce served with two large bready-dumpling things that were like balls of stuffing. We also got a side of red cabbage, a German specialty that was tasty (was sweet). Oh, I had a beer too (of course!) After dinner, we hit a gelato shop for dessert, then went home and called it a night.

Wandering Castle Ruins & Speyer: Day 2
Sunday, we got up, went into town and met a friend of Alicia's (Annetta) for brunch. The menu was huge and I couldn't read any of it, so Alicia spent about an hour translating it for me. I decided on some tea, scrambled eggs, fruit, yogurt and bread. Was good. Anetta was one of Alicia's German teachers when she first arrived. I'd say she taught her well given Alicia's now mastery of the language! Anetta's expecting a baby too -- everyone seems to be pregnant.

After brunch, Alicia and I drove up the gorgeous Neckar Valley and did a hike along three castle ruins. They were very pretty, and I climbed to the top of two of the towers. One climb was very dark though. Actually, pitch black, so I felt my way along the stairs hoping I would not trip in the black void and fall to my death. Clearly, Germany has no concerns about liability and lawsuits (or, they assume you'll be smart enough to bring a flashlight). But the view from the top of the tower was well worth the risk.

Next, we drove to the town of Speyer (located on the Rhine river; was a major Celtic center; developed by Romans, but sacked by Huns ca. 450 AD; rebuilt in 7th cen.; ruled by powerful bishops from 10th cen.; major trading center by 11th cen.; destroyed by French in War of Grand Alliance in 1689.)

We visited the lovely cathedral in the town's center which is HUGE. It was founded by Conrad II in 1050 and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site...it was the biggest church of its time. Really a massive and gorgeous structure with a huge dome and 4 towers. And Episcopalian no less (I'm Episcopalian so I always like that in a church). Despite its size, it is a very simply designed and decorated church inside with none of the usual gaudy decor. Almost refreshing and zen-like. We went down into the crypt which was interesting -- it is the resting place of at least 8 medievil German emperors and kings.

From the church, we wandered down Speyer's main street to a lovely, wide tower called the Altportal. The town's main street (Maximilianstrasse) has been refurbished and looks brand new. It has the charm of a Disneyland street or Naples, FL -- with impeccable pastel coloured buildings and a picture-perfect cobblestone road. Alicia and I took a break at an outside cafe where we people watched over steamy cappuccinos and two huge slices of cake. It had gotten kind of chilly out, but the cafe provided warm fleece blankets to cover up with which was a nice touch. I'm telling you, these Germans really know how to host a crowd. ;)

After our wander of Speyer, we headed back to Alicia's house....I had to get back to make my 10:10pm flight back to London that night.

Alicia & Christian's Abode
A & C live in a nice, big house in a darling neighborhood. There is a large, artistic oven in the main living area that Alicia tells me 1) does not heat the house or 2) cook anything. But it sure does look nice. It's three stories, plus a basement (the house, not the oven). I felt like I was staying at a little hotel. They also have a nicely landscaped backyard, referred to as "gardens" in Germany.

Christian had been hiking in the Alps all weekend with friends, so Alicia and I had a true girls weekend. But he returned before I left on Sunday evening, so we all had a nice pasta dinner together at their house. It was nice to see him again...he is a very nice guy (and a very tired guy after his weekend escapade). I predict the Lenze baby will be hiking before she can even walk...it will be in the genes. ;)

Really, there are castsles EVERYWHERE!!!
On the drive to the Frankfurt airport Sunday night, I was just floored by all the castles in Germany. They are everywhere, and all lit up at night along the roads and hills. It's pretty cool, and now I want to go back to see more! I definitely feel a castle obsession coming on. My neices, who loves princesses and fairy tales, would be very envious.

One last "I'm sorry," fair Deutchland!
So Germany, I am soooo sorry I doubted you, but I promise never to do it again. I had a really great, relaxing weekend, even with all we did. And I now want to return to see more -- Bavaria, Berlin, Munich and Hamburg in particular. And the quick flight from London will make that pretty darn easy.

Wednesday, October 12, 2005

The TV Police

I received a rather threatening letter in my mailbox yesterday from the TV Licensing Board. It was addressed to the previous resident of my flat saying that my apartment was under investigation for not paying the TV licensing fee. The letter goes on to say that they are watching me and that this is a serious offense with a £1,000 fine for offenders.

What the....? Well, In the United Kingdom, citizens must pay a licence if they own a television set. Not for cable or satellite, just for the regular old 5 channels you get when you plug the set in. The British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) is a government agency that has the power to tax and enforce laws. In order to obtain funding, the BBC requires that anyone using its services must pay for them. The annual cost (set by the government) is currently £126.50.

But you say, "Ha! Try and PROVE that I'm watching the tele," right? Well, they have the means to enforce it too! Government enforcers (who I like to call "The TV Police") actually patrol the streets of England in vans rigged with cutting-edge technology that can detect when a TV is on inside a home that has not paid the TV license. Then, when an offender is identified, they come knocking on your door to catch you in the act and slap you with the hefty fine! I visulize this to look like the high-action drug busts I've seen on the TV show "Cops," but with people scrambling to flush the TV down the toilet instead of the drugs. Hey, this would make for some quality reality TV here in the U.K.!

So, needless to say, I took care of this little situation first thing this morning. The last thing I need are the TV police to come knocking on my door as I'm suffering through one of the very bad, low-budget American movies from the early 1980s that the BBC makes available each evening (last night they aired the Burt Reynolds classic "Every Which Way But Loose" -- I rest my case).

I am curious though, what do the "TV police" uniforms look like?

Tuesday, October 11, 2005

Erica & Andy...Together Forever (Just like that Rick Astley song)

















Greetings!

I took a whirlwind trip to Boston last weekend for my friend Erica's wedding -- it was lots of fun, despite the long travel for the short trip! She and her new husband (the delightful Andy Murray) got married in the city center and had the reception at the lovely Gamble Mansion. It rained for the better part of the weekend, but that didn't ruin the fun! It was also a nice reunion for my best gal pals, Kate, Molly and Melinda, who were all there as well (the three of them, Erica and I have a girls beach weekend tradition that goes back many years from when we all lived in DC -- we were rather inseparable). So, a joyful "Cheers!" to Erica and Andy (who are now lounging on a beach in Hawaii and definitely not concerning themselves with this blog).

Oh, I must also mention that their wedding announcement made it into the New York Times on Sunday....which is, um, no easy feat!

Sunday, before leaving, I met up with my sweet friends Dan and Ellen Pedro, who walked around town with me and then introduced me to Boston's charming Oak Bar where we had a cocktail. It was wonderful seeing them.

Here are some pix from the wedding...

Cutting the cake













Erica and Andy, post wedding, at their brunch on Sunday


















The Gals: Me, Melinda, Molly and Kate













There was crazy dancing all night....with Melinda in the lead, as always. She is about 6 months pregnant, so this is adorable and impressive at the same time. The groom's father actually thanked her for being the life of the party (true story).

This is Melinda and her hubby Jeff. Aren't they cute? Jeff is one of my favorite guys in the world becuase he is totally fun and cool and can hang with all girls and actually enjoy it (or at least he does a good job pretending)! He always fits right in and contributes to the good time at hand.

Friday, September 23, 2005

Gaudy? No Silly, Gaudi! (Barcelona)


I am in Spain. Barcelona, to be exact. I had meetings here for work yesterday and today, and am staying the weekend to sightsee and play.

So far, Barcelona is great. The architecture here is wild and whimsical (that would be Antoni Gaudi´s architecture, of course). We toured Gaudi´s La Pedrera building today on our lunch break -- it is across the street from the Edelman office. It´s almost Disney-like...looks like a big birthday cake. I will post my pictures as soon as I get back to England.

The food is wonderful. Darling tasty little sandwiches for lunch, pastries for snacks and tapas for dinner. And lots of coffee to balance the little sleep I´m getting. I´ve also been drinking lots of Rioja...after all, when in Spain...

The weather is gorgeous -- warm, sunny, a little muggy. Might be nice to head to the beach, but I have too much to see and do here in the city, so that´s a last priority.

Our office here is lovely, and I must say, my Spanish colleagues (Blanca, Javier and Vanessa) are perhaps some of the warmest, friendliest and most genuine people I have ever met. Good hosts too. It was a true pleasure spending the two days in meetings with them and getting to know them, lovely people all around.

Last night I stayed in the swanky Hotel Omm (winner of the 2005 Travel + Leisure magazine design award). As a matter of fact, it was SO swanky I could not even work the room. Ultra hip, modern and minimalist, it had a million light switches and electric curtains and shades. The nightstand lit up and everything was white. The flat-screen TV was built into a space-age looking white plastic wall. I had to go to the bathroom in the dark becuase I never figured out how to turn the lights on. There were instructions, but they were in Spanish and I was too tired and lazy to get out my dictionary and translate (besides, no one really wants to insult their intelligence by reading directions for a light switch) Oh yes, and the hallways...they are pitch-black-dark, but when you step off the elevators, bright white runway lights come on either side of the hall. Baffling at first...like I had been dumped on the runway at LaGuardia airport or a Fashion Week catwalk (ok, a runway at LaGuardia definitely more probable for me). But there was a nice little balcony with chairs off my room that I sat on for awhile and did some reading. That is, once I figured out how to open the door. I know it sounds bizarre, but I´m not kidding. Hundreds of dollars a night to go to the bathroom in the dark becuase I´m seemingly too stupid to figure out how to turn on the lights. Guess the Motel 8 is more my speed. But hey, according to their slogan, "they´ll leave a light on" -- so that would have come in handy.

Tonight and tomorrow, since I´m on my own dollar now, I have moved to another neighborhood and am staying in the very cozy, but far-easier-to-operate, AC Hotel Vilamari. I am pleased to say I can work everything in this hotel and have not found myself befuddled or in the dark yet.

Last night, we (my Edelman colleagues from all over Europe) ate at this crazy cool restaurant at the top of this very tall tower overlookig the Mediterranean Sea. As we were eating, a massive, 20-minute fireworks extravaganza went off in honor of a national holiday they are celebrating today. These fireworks were SPECTACULAR -- completely making up for the pathetic display I saw in London on Sunday. And the best part was that they were eye level since we were up so high...it was like we were in them. I sat there mesermized, in awe that I was 1) in Spain 2) having a great dinner and 3) literally part of an outrageous fireworks display. It was beautiful.

Tomorrow I have a lot of sightseeing to do. I plan to visit another Gaudi house, the Sagrada Familia Cathedral (also Gaudi), Park Guell and the Gaudi museum, wander the Gothic neighborhood, and visit La Boqueria, the city´s largest food market. I also want to shop, as there are a ton of pretty things here to buy. Danger.

Viva Espana!

Postscript:

Over the weekend, I went wild running around the city to see everything I had on my list. I visited Gaudi's Sagrada Familia cathedral (wild! crazy! weird!); walked all around Park Guell (also designed by Gaudi where I climbed to the very top overlooking the whole city and the Med Sea, also toured a house in the park that he lived in); wandered the windy, narrow streets of the Gothic neighborhood and toured its wonderful cathedral and cloisters (also took in the view from the roof); ate paella (yum!); visited the fantastic Catalan Art Museum in the Palau Nacional (where I discovered the artist Ramon Casas, who I now love); walked through the Olympic village; went to the Caixa Forum, a cultural arts center where I saw an Art Nouveau exhibit; strolled Las Ramblas; admired a gigantic, colorful Joan Miro sculpture in a park named after the artist; and did a bit more shopping (of course). The Boqueria market was closed unfortunately for the holiday weekend (it was Barcelona's annual Merce festival), so that was a little dissapointing, but it's not like I lacked for things to see. Needless to say, I was way exhausted by the time I made it to the airport Sunday night -- but what a great visit. What a great city! Following are a few more pictures...

Enjoying Park Guell








The Edelman Group on the roof of Casa Mila La Pedrera








Joan Miro sculpture












The creepy Sagrada Familia Cathedral (by Gaudi)












The dome at Palau Nacional












My fancy red shoes I purchased in Barcelona on two very exhausted feet (I took this in the back of the cab going to the airport)

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

The "Yes" Girl

This past weekend was an exercise in saying “yes” to everything I was invited to do, and I must say, it turned out pretty well!

Friday Night: Parson’s Green

Friday night, my new friend Dominic invited me out with him and some friends at the White Horse Pub in Parsons Green (about a 20-minute taxi ride from my neighborhood), followed by dinner at another pub a few minutes away. What an unusual crowd that was….Dom, three of his English friends, and about seven Americans from Tennessee. Dom went to Vanderbilt in Nashville, so it was a combination of classmates/friends who now live in London, and some others that had come to visit. They were a loud, fun crowd, it was just odd to be in England surrounded by a group of boisterous American Southerners. At first, I hesitated when I received the invite out of fear of showing up alone, not knowing anyone and looking like a loser (I’d only met Dom once). But reason kicked in that the alternative was to hang out by myself on a Friday night at home watching the BBC, eating a pizza and drinking a bottle of wine (which, um, is what I did many a Friday night in NYC, even with other options), so that didn’t sound like a very good plan either. After all, now is the time to be a little bold considering I’m in a new town where no one will just magically come knocking on my door. And as it turned out, gabbing inanely and laughing with a bunch of crazy strangers while sharing a sticky toffee pudding turned out to be a pretty good evening. (NOTE: The sticky toffee pudding was tasty, but in England, “pudding” just kinda means dessert….it was not pudding, just toffee-flavored cake. And not even that sticky, now that I think back on it.)

Saturday: Big Bus Tour, Tea, and The Offspring


Saturday morning, I met my friends Jon and Tania for a 2.5 hour Big Bus Tour around London. You know, the double decker bus gig. John and Tania have lived here for years but had never done the tour, so it was fun (and funny) being a tourist with them...we were all snapping pictures and oooing and aaahing the whole way. It was a GORGEOUS day with sunny blue skies and white puffy clouds. The tour itself was great, but I must say, Jon and Tania were really the main attraction. Boy do those kids know how to be tourists in style. They showed up with a six-pack of Belgian beer, a thermos of hot toddies (my new favorite drink: whisky, hot water and sugar), and sandwiches and salad from Marks & Spencer. So needless to say, we ate and drank our way through the Big Bus Tour, sitting on top of the bus in the open air with the wind in our hair. Couldn’t understand a word the tour guide was saying (it all sounded like Charlie Brown teacher speak to me), but the sights were great in the glorious weather and it was nice to get out and about.


After the bus tour, we went into Fortnum & Mason on Picadilly, a very famous department store with an unbelievable food hall on the main floor. There really is nothing to compare this type of thing to in the States. Like the food hall at Harrod’s, Fortnum & Mason wows you, and the pictures here show you why: Chocolates, truffles, and candy as far as the eye can see. Vats of exotic coffee beans. Tin upon glorious tin of rare teas. Rows of crackers, cheese, olive oil, pate, cookies, crackers, biscuits, crisps, pastries, jellies, jams, and nuts. Honey in every shade of gold from far corners of the world. Beautifully packaged gifts packed in wooden boxes, shiny paper, colorful tins and ceramic pots. It’s like being, um, a kid in a candy store! The outside windows and inside displays are whimsically magical, and the posh carpeting and crystal chandeliers finish off the decadent experience of being in the place. I think I want to live there.

After being overwhelmed by hand selecting a box of chocolate truffles for a thank you gift I needed for someone, we went upstairs to the tea parlor. We each got a pot of tea and some biscuits (cookies) and sat gabbing on the comfy sofas for a couple hours and listening to the piano player. We left right before the 4pm afternoon tea rush.

Saturday evening, my new friend Margot (she is originally from Atlanta and has lived in London for 4 years) invited me to jpin her to go see/hear the American rock band “The Offspring” play in Brixton Saturday night. I haven’t rocked out like that since Christy Gagnon’s dad took us to the Duran Duran concert in the 7th grade. The concert was loud and fun (kind of like the dinner crowd Friday night, albeit a bit louder and sans Southern accents.) After the concert, we went to a nearby pub for a cocktail to avoid the post-concert tube crowds. Brixton is an interesting neighborhood -- it’s what you’d get if you crossed Harlem with the Lower East Side in NYC. Very cool ‘hood with interesting and seemingly nice people.

Sunday: Say “Om,” Carnivale and Fireworks

Sunday afternoon I went to yoga class at the gym. I really like the instructor and will make a regular go of it. I felt great after, although I am writing this two days later and am still sore. It’s a substantial class -- an hour and a half. I twisted myself in every conceivable pretzel position known to man. And maybe some not known to man until Sunday. I even did a headstand, with some initial help from the instructor. How did I do that as a kid?! I used to stand on my head for hours in the family room while watching TV. I think the world made more sense to me upside down at that point in my life. As a matter of fact, the world seemed to make more sense to me again upside down in yoga class. Blood rushing to the head -- a good thing on occasion. Perhaps I need to practice that maneuver some more in my flat. Maybe I can even work that way.

Sunday evening I walked down to Victoria Embankment along the river and caught the Thames River Festival parade, which started at 8pm. It was an hour-long Brazilian Carnival-themed parade of Samba music, brightly-coloured lanterns, bands, dancers, floats, and scantily-clad women in feathers. It was very fun and festive, and I snapped so many pictures that my camera batteries died halfway through. I even saw the Mayor of Westminster up close (oooooohhhhh). He seemed to be enjoying the scantily-clad women. His wife however, did not.

After the parade, I made my way up to Blackfriar’s Bridge to get a good vantage point to watch the festival’s closing night fireworks over the Thames. I stood waiting an hour for them to start, crammed into a crowd of hundreds, and they lasted, oh, about 5 minutes. NYC definitely trumps London in the fireworks department. The standard sparks set off for the symphony concerts in Central Park alone last longer than that! Oh well, again, nothing better to do, and it was a great night, so no complaints…

Here's a picture of my favorite parade entry: The piggies with knives and forks....they were dancing to the song "I Shot the Sherriff" by Bob Marley...classic!



So that was my weekend of being a yes girl. With days like these, who wants to say no?

Monday, September 12, 2005

My Neighborhood/Good Measure


Thought you might like to see a picture of my neighborhood. That’s Covent Garden Market in the back with the green roof. My flat is in the building on the far right with the red roof. That’s me on the left, in blue, talking with my neighbor Richard…we ran into each other coming out of Cafe Nero (funny, he was wearing blue today too). Oh, and that’s St. Martins-In-the-Fields church in the center of town.

Ha! I’m just kidding! This is not really my neighborhood!

But seriously, isn’t this toy village cute? I found it in a Japanese design store called Muji on my way home from work today. I kind of freaked when I saw it, because I had one just like it (but with many more pieces) when I was a little kid. And I had totally forgotten all about it until I saw this today. The nostalgia was too much, I had to have it (it’s called “Village in a Bag”). Oh, and Elizabeth, don’t show this to Catherine since she, Elise and unborn sister will each be getting a set for Christmas (Because I’m sure my niece Catherine, who is 6, reads this blog.)

I’m sure by now my mother is frantically searching the English yellow pages for a good therapist, so following, you can see REAL pictures of my neighborhood!












Tonight was my first visit to the gym I joined, so to celebrate the 35 minutes I ran on the treadmill, I am now enjoying some yummy cheese and crackers. Think I’ve just about eaten all the calories I burned, so I’m good. Oh, and can I just say that I LOVE these British scales?? When I got on tonight in the locker room, I was delighted to see the needle hit 63…kilograms are sweet! I’ve been trying to get down to double digits for some time now, this English diet must be working already! Even better, the scales also register “stones,” and I was only 9-10 of those! (A “stone” is 14 lbs in Brit speak, BTW). I am loving this country’s measures!

Ok, I think I have probably worn out my welcome for this post. Goodnight. ;)

Sunday, September 11, 2005

Mayo: The Official Condiment of England

I know...kinda bad that after more than a week here, what I find most compelling to lead with today is mayonnaise. But really...they like it here...on everything! It's rarely optional. This is kind of an issue for me becuase I don't like it, except in my Grandmother's chicken salad, which is the only excpetion.

Takeaway sandwich shops are everywhere in London...PRET and EAT are the big chains here (we have Pret in NYC too). Anyway, these shops boast row upon row of pre-made sandwiches in a huge variety of combinations -- the common demometer being that they are all loaded with mayo (except one sandwich I was able to find Friday with yogurt dressing...it was the only sandwich with the big "MAYO FREE" sticker on it.)

Today, I stopped into Ultimate Burger on New Oxford Street. Was starving, and the "Portobello Mushroom Burger with spicey BBQ sauce" caught my eye. So I went in and got one. I assumed that becuase it had spicey BBQ sauce on it, it would not have mayo too...wrong! So, the lesson here is that no matter what you are ordering, always ask that it NOT have mayo on it. Doesn't matter if I'm ordering a chocolate chip cookie...I'm still going to request that they hold the mayo, just in case. ;)

Ok, now that THAT is out of the way...

I thought I was going to venture around the city much more than I did this weekend. Friday, I went to the pub after work with my new co-workers, but was tired and called it a night fairly early.

Yesterday, I met my friend Stefanie and her boyfriend Ashley for lunch at a great little Brazilian Cafe in Neal's Yard/7 Dials (that's about a 5 minute walk from my flat). I've included a picture...that was the first time I had met Ashley and he was so fun.


After lunch, I set out to explore Regent and Oxford Streets, which are major shopping streets in London. And that's pretty much what I did all day. Spent about 2.5 hours in Topshop, which is sort of like an H&M (cheap, trendy clothes) only HUGE....like 4 floors, it was endless and I was lost! I must have made 4 trips to the dressing rooms, but still walked away with nothing -- nothing seemed to fit right. (I'm still trying to get a grip on English/European style...) I did make one purchase though....a bag of gummy candies from the candy shop on the way out, so I did not walk away empty-handed. ;)

This is a shot of Regent Street to the right.

After Topshop, I went to Purves Purves (I know, nice name, huh?) on Tottenham Court Road, a very cool design store that my co-worker Rory told me about. Very cool stuff for the home...furniture, accessories, decor, gadgets, cookware...it was fun to browse around -- it put me in mind of the Conran Shop in NYC. I picked up a few odds and ends for my flat.

I then walked around by the British Museum and Bloomsbury Square. I got turned around and wasn't sure where I was (was too tired to make sense of the map), so I jumped in a taxi and got a lift home...I wasn't that far away from home (the taxi driver must have thought I was REALLY lazy), but I was tired from all the walking and didn't feel like figuring it out.

This morning, I found a great gym a couple blocks away from my flat that I joined, so I am very excited to begin working out tomorrow morning. Then, I went into the office to help Rory paint a room we are redecorating into a creative brainstorming space. After that, I ran some errands, got a bite to eat, then came home. It was a nice weekend. But next weekend I promise to be more adventurous....there is so much to see here, honestly, I'm a bit overwhelmed and don't know where to start! The list of must-dos is daunting, almost paralyzing. I did get a better sense of how the city is laid out this weekend, so that was at least helpful.

The weather definitely turned today though...it has been warm and sunny, in the 80s, every day since I arrived. Today was much cooler and gray...even chilly later in the day. People were wearing sweaters (or jumpers, as they are called here). Quite a change, but it sort of felt good after the heat.

That's all the latest for now....I know, I'll try to do something more exciting next weekend for more compelling reporting!

September 11th


I can't beleive it's been 4 years since the September 11th attacks. I'll miss being in NYC for the tribute in lights that the city stages each year: Two powerful spotlights that shine up from Ground Zero into the night sky...seemingly infinite. It's a powerful and moving memorial that manages to anchor the skyline, even in the absence of the Twin Towers.

Like countless people, I often reflect on the events of that day our world changed, reconnecting with the overwhelming feeling of fear, vulnerability, shock and sadness that we all fell victim to. It's important to me that I remember that fragility and be grateful for the present day that I'm living in and what I have...most importantly, family, friends, health and opportunities.

The events of September 11th are something that will never be resolved or put to rest in my heart and mind. I will never understand it or find a sense of closure with that day. The trauma and memory will not fade over time. I will never forget.

Sunday, September 04, 2005

First Days in London


So, I’ve been in London for less than three days and have already decided I want to stay indefinitely. I love it here, and strangely enough, it already feels like home. I know, I know, a couple weeks ago I was lamenting over leaving my beloved New York City. What can I say, I’m a very, very fickle girl. These are the moments that reaffirm my mother's opinion that I'm a gypsy at heart.

Here's the latest on my new world:

1. My Flat: Sussex Mansions, Maiden Lane
Don’t be too envious; it’s not really a mansion, a la Richie Rich. But it is a very attractive red brick building. It’s four stories with stained glass accents on the street-facing windows and doors. The stairwells and hallways are carpeted with crazy loud green and blue plaid carpeting (it's growing on me). Fortunately, the carpet is not in the flat itself.

The flat is really great – spacious and open (unlike my closet, err, I mean, apartment, in New York), with blonde wood floors and tasteful décor and furniture. It’s all very neutral and zen. There are three windows in the living area that illuminate the space – it’s very bright and sunny. There is also a window in the bedroom and bathroom. The view overlooks the rooftops and the scaffolding on the building across the way (I wake up to painters at eye level in the morning out my windows…must remember to pull the shades). I can even see the sky. Oh, and no bars on the windows, a pleasant change from NYC. I’m on the fourth floor, but there is a lift (elevator).

I have a dishwasher and washer/dryer in my flat (the washer/dryer is combined in one machine -- don’t ask me how that works). Of course, I have no idea how to use these things, but just having them to look at is cool, I feel like a real grown-up. Perhaps one day I will attempt to use them without blowing anything up or burning anything down. I am very comfortable here.

Note to self: Get metric conversion chart, I have no idea what any of the numbers on my kitchen appliances mean.

2. My Neighborhood: Covent Garden, WC2
I think the proper New York terminology to describe my new neighborhood is “kick-a*s.” My flat is centrally located in one of the trendiest and busiest downtown neighborhoods. My street is lined with swanky bars, lounges and cafes, as well as a colorful variety of pubs and restaurants. It’s also the city’s shopping hub with enough stores to put you in debt for the rest of your life (especially given the exchange rate these days). It's also situated in the middle of the theatre district and a short walk to the Thames River, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Circus and many pretty parks. All in the setting of beautiful old architecture, red phone booths, and rustic cobblestone streets -- which have forced me to reconsider my shoe choices since I’ll be walking to work every day – adios stilettos! My office is a ten-minute walk -- a small luxury.

In the evening, the streets are filled with people socializing and drinking and mingling outside the pubs (I, um, get the impression that British people like to drink a little). Seems to be a popular after-work and weekend destination. It’s quite a scene at night (a big tourist spot too), but my flat overlooks the back of the building so there is no noise whatsoever in my place. While not a quiet, residential neighborhood, it’s fun and perfect for a newcomer.

Note to self: Must find some friends to go to pubs with -- establish social life.

3. British Television: The Fabulous Five
Thursday afternoon, after getting settled in my flat, I went into my office and asked our HR director (who helped me get settled) what might be wrong with my TV, I was only getting five channels. To which she replied, “We only have five channels in England.”

Note: Won’t be spending too much time watching TV. Although I do love the BBC (have always been a fan of the Saturday night “Brit Block” on PBS in the U.S.)

4. English: Same Language, Different Words
In the back of my mind, I’ve been thinking of my time in England as a finishing school of sorts. English people just sound so much more polite than Americans, and seem to have a more solid baseline of good manners. It’s not necessarily what they say, just how they say it. After living in NYC, this feels like rehab.

Speaking of, a prominent news story when I arrived last week was that Tony Blair is cracking down on "anti-social behaviour," meaning he is taking initiatives that stress proper behaviour among Britain's youth (and the not-so-young as well). Hmm, novel concept!

Vocabulary tip: Pants are called “trousers” here. If you say pants, that kind of means underwear. There is a huge long list of vocabulary that I must learn asap. Otherwise, I fear I have some embarrassing times ahead (well, more than usual, at least).

5. My Neighbor: Richard
We met by the lift yesterday. I was confused by where to put the rubbish (garbage) and he told me where it goes. We moved in the same day, but he seems to know a lot more about what he's doing than I do.

6. Marks & Spencer: My New Favorite Market & One of the Reasons England Will Make Me Fat
I was under some strange delusion that I might cook here given the expense of eating out and the fact that I have a functional kitchen and dining room table in my flat. That was until I discovered Marks & Spencer, a nearby market with a dazzling selection of freshly prepared foods. Salads, soups, sandwiches, sushi, ready-to-eat dinners, pastas, sauces, cheese, bread, chocolate, pastries, fruit juices, wine, and their own brand of yogurt. Namely, a rhubarb yogurt that is to-die-for and that I will be eating every day until I am completely exhausted of rhubarb yogurt…if that’s possible. It’s heaven in a cardboard cup. Whoever said English food is bad hasn’t been here lately.

Oh, and they have a selection of potato chips here (they are called "crisps") that boggles the mind. Today, I saw "Moroccan Lamb and Mint" flavoured crisps, as well as "Thai Curry" and "Oregano, Mozzerella and Basil." Hmmm...I may have to give up real food for a diet that consists completely of snack food (Look for my upcoming book and new diet craze: "The English Crisp Diet").

7. Learn the Coins
The genetic defect I inherited from my Grandmother that requires me to always provide exact change will be aided greatly if I learn the British coins. While checking out at M&S yesterday, I was digging in my wallet for exact change, which I had to examine closely since I could not tell the value of any of the coins. Then I realized I was seriously holding up the line. As much as it pained me, I just handed over bills, but promptly came home, laid them all out on the table and memorized what’s what so I don’t find myself in that situation again.

Ok, I know, this is a travel blog, not a blog about a basket case with OCD. That will be my second blog.

8. British Magazines: They Come With Free Stuff!
My friend John told me about this, but yesterday I discovered it for myself! To get people to buy magazines, they package them with free goodies. So yesterday I bought a British issue of Marie Claire, which came with a too-cute tote bag and a sample bottle of hand lotion. Is this a great country, or what?

Note: Remember that whatever free stuff you collect, you must eventually ship home. Unless you marry Prince William and stay forever with plenty of closet space in the palace for all your free stuff. (Which I was planning on doing anyway.)

9. My Friends in London: Very Nice People
I have handful of friends in London who have all been very helpful and nice so far.

Today, my friend Stefanie (who has lived here for 8 years), came over with her friends Margo and Kim and we went to lunch. My good friend Cristina lives here too, and she came as well (she is married to John and has a precious 18-month old baby, Katie). I used to work with both Cristina and Stefanie at Porter Novelli in DC way back. (Cristina also lived in NYC before marrying John, who is British). Tomorrow, Cristina and I are driving out to John Lewis (a department store, which I have renamed "Richard Lewis" after the C-list American actor) to buy some random things I need for my flat.

My friend John and his wife Tania also live here. John is from NYC and has called me every day since I arrived telling me which newspapers to buy/read and what days certain papers come with weekly magazines (he's a news junkie like me -- loves smut and real news alike). Before I moved, John was very helpful answering all my tedious questions via phone.

I also know Ed and Gary, who I met through my friend Molly (we stayed with them last time we were visiting London).

My friend Abby from NYC and her husband (Egan) move here Tuesday. That will be nice to have another newcomer friend here as well. They are here for 2 years for Egan's job.

Finally, my boss in London -- Mitch -- is my former boss from NY (he’s in London permanently now which is sort of how I got this gig), so I am very lucky to be working with him again.

It’s going to be great to reconnect with friends on this side of the ocean and make some new ones. It’s a shame I wasn’t a military kid who moved around a lot, I kind of like being the new kid in school.

10. Jetlag
I have it bad -- didn’t sleep at all last night. But tonight I am armed with remedies: A deep bathtub, lavender bath bombs from Lush (my favorite products store), sleeping pills (over-the-counter Mom, no worries), herbal tea, and wine (only as a last-ditch resort should the first remedies fail). I’m determined to go down and get on schedule!!

It's already 11:40PM....better get started on those remedies asap.

The End of this Very Long Post...
Well, that’s all the news fit to print so far. Not all posts will be this long, but scene synopsis and character description are key to the set-up of any good story.